Island of Vis: The Mysterious Socialist Military Fortress
- Teo Drinkovic
- Oct 9
- 5 min read
How Yugoslavia Transformed the Island of Vis Into Its Secret Stronghold; Uncover tunnels, bunkers, and Cold-War secrets of Vis – a captivating journey from Greek antiquity through Yugoslav secrecy to modern tourism
Introduction
If you’ve ever wondered what it would feel like to visit a mysterious island, something straight out of a James Bond movie, the lair of a mastermind, secret tunnels, hidden weapons, then the island of Vis in Croatia is the place to make all those fantasies real.
From 1945 to 1990, Vis was under the control of the Yugoslav People’s Army (JNA), which completely banned strangers from approaching or landing on the island, turning Vis into an impregnable fortress.
To make Vis invincible, the JNA bored tunnels through the whole island, like Swiss cheese, hiding secret weaponry. They built tunnels, shelters, underground bunkers, command centers, helicopter ports, radar stations, naval support facilities, everything you’d expect in the stronghold of some cinematic villain.
Today, the soldiers are gone, and instead, the tourist guides lead groups through the carved tunnels, showing what everything looked like in its heyday, when Tito was alive and power felt eternal.
Secret military tunnels inside the island of Vis, Croatia
Source: Google.com
Vis at a Glance
Vis is an island in the central Adriatic, about 90 square kilometers in area. It lies roughly 45 nautical miles from the mainland (Split) and about 60 miles from the Italian coast. The climate is typically Mediterranean: mild, wet winters, warm and dry long summers.
Because of its isolation and its period as a military base closed to foreigners, Vis has preserved surprisingly much of its natural beauty and authenticity. The water is crystal clear, coves are untouched, locals are friendly, and traditions of Mediterranean life and wine remain vibrant.
History of Vis: From Antiquity to the Socialist Military Fortress
As soon as you step into the town of Vis, the island’s main settlement, you can feel echoes of antiquity. Ancient Issa was founded as a Greek settlement around 397 BC by Dionysius the Elder of Syracuse.
Issa was once an important urban center, with colonies even in what are today Trogir, Stobreč, and Lumbarda (on Korčula). Over centuries, Vis was occupied by the Romans, the Byzantines, the Venetians, the Austrians, Italy, and finally became part of Yugoslavia.
Military buildings, weapons and secret passages on the island of Vis
Source: Google.com
JNA Occupation & the Unconquerable Fortress
A special chapter in Vis’s history is the period when it was firmly under the Yugoslav People's Army. During WWII, Vis served as a free territory where Josip Broz Tito, the top command, and Allied commanders were based. After the war, Vis became one of JNA’s main naval and military bases.
Secret airports, tunnels, shelters, underground bunkers, command centers, helicopter pads, radar stations, and naval support facilities were all built. Until around 1990, the island was completely closed to foreign visitors due to fears of espionage.
One of the more famous tunnels is “Jastog” (“Lobster”) in Parja Bay. It is massive: carved in rock, about 125–127 meters long, roughly 18 meters high, originally intended for torpedo boats, and later also used to shelter submarines from air attack.
Other examples include labyrinths of underground corridors, bunkers, command posts, tunnels, and shelters at Rogačić; the Vela Glava complex; the Samogor barracks; heliport landing pads; and radar stations. ARK Vela Glava, in particular, was a subterranean command center and also functioned as a nuclear shelter for about 200 people.
After the breakup of Yugoslavia and the Croatian War of Independence, the base was demilitarized. Many facilities were abandoned, looted, and damaged; others have been renovated and are now open via organized tours (“Vis Military Tours”) for visitors curious about this fascinating layer of Croatian history.
Military airport and airplanes on the island of Vis during World War II
Settlements: Vis Town and Komiža
Vis Town
The town of Vis is situated in the protected bay of St. George on the northeast side of the island, facing Hvar and the mainland. Its port is renowned. The town is divided into two parts, Kut and Luka, the districts by the coast, dotted with restaurants, cafés, and seaside promenades. Vis Town has roughly 2,000 inhabitants, while the whole island has about 3,500.
Inside Vis Town, there’s the Archaeological Museum in the fortress of Batarija, which holds valuable ancient artifacts like a bronze head of Artemis, amphorae, and statues. You can also see Roman remains: baths, a theatre on the Prirovu peninsula built during Roman times above even older layers, and a Hellenistic cemetery.
The town of Vis
The baroque Church of St. George and St. Justina from the 18th century sits in the Kut district; the Church of St. George from the 9th century is on a small peninsula at the entrance to Vis harbor. There’s also the Church of St. Jerome and a Franciscan monastery dating to the 16th century, Renaissance style with later additions.
Beaches in Vis Town are very accessible and beautiful: Prirovo, Grandovac, Issa Beach, and Czech Villa Beach. All are pebbly, shaded by pine trees and tamarisks, with clear water and pretty promenades by the sea.
Komiža
Komiža is a fishing village on the southwestern side of the island, sitting beneath the hill Hum (about 587 meters high). Its inhabitants are traditionally fishers and farmers, tied strongly to maritime culture and fishing traditions. Komiža has many stone houses, narrow streets, and architecture that keeps the Mediterranean spirit alive.
Komiža is a fishing village on the southwestern side of the island Vis
There’s a Fishing Museum in the Venetian fortress by the harbor, and the Church of St. Nicholas, patron saint of fishermen. Beaches worth visiting in Komiža include Gusarica, Kamenice, Novo, Storo Pošta, Lucica, Žanićevo, and Mlin. By night, some beaches (like Kamenice) become lively places of entertainment; by day, perfect for swimming.
Islands & Islets Around Vis
Vis is not alone. It’s surrounded by smaller islands, islets, and hidden coves that are particularly attractive. The most famous is Biševo, about 5 km southwest of Komiža. There lies the Blue Cave (Modra špilja), with a spectacular effect of blue light when sunlight enters at certain angles. Other islets/localities around Vis include Ravnik (with the “Green Cave”), Budikovac, Brusnik, Jabuka, Svetac, and others.
When to Visit Vis
If you decide to visit, you can go in high summer when everything is alive and buzzing, or better yet, in the shoulder season, September–October, when crowds thin out and exploring is easier. Also interesting: the Hollywood musical Mamma Mia! was partly filmed on Vis (presented in the film as a Greek island), so you can also visit filming sites.
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