Opatija: The City of Viennese Waltz and the Royal Retreat
- Teo Drinkovic
- 10 hours ago
- 5 min read
Discover the timeless beauty of Opatija on Croatia’s Riviera, where emperors, artists, and dreamers once walked
Introduction
If you’ve read some of my previous articles about the beauty of my homeland, Croatia, you already know it’s a truly magical country filled with hidden, unusual, and unexplored gems. Opatija is no exception.
Nestled in the Kvarner Bay of the Northern Adriatic, this coastal jewel is one of the brightest pearls of the region. Unlike many other towns, Opatija doesn’t live only in the summer months; it is alive year-round, always welcoming visitors from around the globe.
Opatija – The Pearl of Kvarner and a Historic Royal Retreat
At the foot of Mount Učka, right next to Učka Nature Park, lies Opatija, a charming seaside beauty that for more than a century has carried the title of one of Croatia’s most beloved tourist destinations.
This “sunny pearl of Kvarner” was a true pioneer of tourism on the Adriatic coast. In the late 19th century, Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria proclaimed Opatija a climatic health resort, making it the first of its kind on the Adriatic.
What was once a humble fishing village soon transformed into an elite summer destination, attracting emperors, nobility, and intellectuals from all over Europe.
Walking through its narrow streets with breathtaking views of Kvarner Bay, you can still feel the spirit of Old Europe, the age of kings, emperors, and waltzes. Opatija is often compared to Newport in Rhode Island, but with its own distinctive Austro-Mediterranean charm: palm trees swaying in the sea breeze, the scent of camellias in bloom, and the sound of waves echoing through elegant villas. The camellia, in fact, remains one of Opatija’s enduring symbols.
From Monastery to Seaside Resort
The name Opatija comes from the Benedictine abbey (opatija in Croatian) of St. James, first mentioned in 1453. Back then, it was just a small fishing village with about thirty houses and around 250 inhabitants, mostly fishermen, farmers, and shipbuilders.
Tourism began in 1844, when Rijeka merchant Iginio Scarpa built the classicist Villa Angiolina on the slopes of Učka, naming it after his late wife. Surrounded by an exotic park full of camellias and palms, the villa soon drew visitors from Rijeka seeking fresh sea air. Other villas, summer houses, and sanatoriums followed, creating the foundation of Opatija’s rise.
The real boom came in the 1880s, when the Southern Railways Company purchased land and built luxury hotels like Hotel Kvarner (1884) and Hotel Imperial (1885). By 1889, Opatija had been officially declared a health resort. Soon, it became one of the most fashionable holiday destinations of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
Emperors Franz Joseph and Empress Maria Anna, Crown Prince Rudolf, composer Gustav Mahler, and even writer James Joyce left their footprints in Opatija. Their presence shaped the town’s culture and architecture, which still radiates Austro-Hungarian elegance blended with Mediterranean sunshine.
Opatija’s “Walk of Fame”
Hollywood isn’t the only place with a Walk of Fame. Opatija has its own version, dedicated to great Croatian names like Nikola Tesla, basketball legend Dražen Petrović, actor Rade Šerbedžija, and many others.
Located along the Lungomare promenade, it’s a reminder that Opatija continues to honor culture and creativity.
Cultural and Natural Landmarks
Villa Angiolina and Park Angiolina
Villa Angiolina remains one of the city’s main symbols. Today it serves as a museum, surrounded by a lush park that stretches across several hectares and is protected as a monument of garden architecture. Peacocks roam freely, and thousands of flowers bloom year-round, making it one of the most beautiful landscaped gardens on the Adriatic.
Church of St. James
Right next to a charming square lies the Romanesque Church of St. James, bearing witness to the Benedictine roots of Opatija.
Lungomare Promenade
Perhaps the most famous landmark is the Lungomare, a 12-kilometer seaside promenade that stretches from Volosko through Opatija to Lovran.
Built between 1889 and 1911, it offers dazzling views of the coast, villas, and hotels. Strolling here feels like walking through a living museum of Austro-Hungarian seaside architecture.
The Girl with the Seagull
At the end of Lungomare stands Opatija’s most iconic symbol: the bronze statue “The Girl with the Seagull.” Installed in 1956, this sculpture has become a postcard image of the town, its silhouette illuminated by the Adriatic sun.
Beaches and Climate
Opatija’s coast is mostly pebbly, with hidden coves and small bathing spots. The most popular beach, Slatina, stretches along the Lungomare promenade beneath the elegant Hotel Milenij. From here, the views of Kvarner’s islands and the distant Istrian peninsula are unforgettable.
Opatija is enchanting at sunset, when the sun dips behind Mount Učka, painting the sky in warm Mediterranean hues. Its mild winters and warm summers make it an attractive destination year-round.
Winter in Opatija is particularly special thanks to its famous Chocolate Festival and the magical Advent in Opatija, considered one of the most beautiful on the Adriatic.
Austro-Hungarian Heritage
Opatija is one of the best-preserved Austro-Hungarian seaside resorts in Europe. Neoclassical, historicist, and art nouveau villas line its streets, adorned with balconies, loggias, and richly decorated facades.
The city once hosted glamorous balls, concerts, and social evenings, earning the nickname “the German Nice.”
James Joyce himself once wrote that Opatija gave him the peace he needed to finally finish a sentence, a quiet nod to its calming atmosphere.
Wellness and Spa
Today, Opatija continues its tradition as a health and wellness hub. With a wide range of spas, thermal treatments, and luxury hotels, it attracts visitors looking for both relaxation and medical treatments. Whether it’s a classic massage under the scent of pine trees or a modern spa therapy overlooking the sea, Opatija offers comfort and indulgence at every corner.
Outdoor Activities
Opatija is a paradise for nature lovers. Hike to the top of Učka’s Vojak peak (1,401 m) for a 360° view of Kvarner, Istria, and the islands. Cycle or walk along Lungomare, take a boat trip to Krk, Cres, Rab, or Lošinj, or dive into Kvarner Bay to discover coral reefs and sunken ships. Trails like “Slap” (The Waterfall Path) lead to fairy-tale cascades hidden in the forest.
Gastronomy
Opatija’s cuisine blends Mediterranean and continental flavors into an unforgettable experience. Fresh seafood, including Kvarner scampi, squid, octopus, and shellfish, takes center stage, often prepared in traditional styles such as buzara (a rich seafood stew), risotto, or brodetto. Other specialties include codfish in cream, wild asparagus, and desserts made from chestnuts harvested in nearby forests.
Wine lovers can enjoy local varieties like Belica and Muscat, while those with a sweet tooth should not miss the Camellia Cake, a rich treat of figs, almonds, and chocolate, celebrated as Opatija’s signature dessert.
Conclusion
If you decide to visit Croatia, make sure to leave space in your itinerary for Opatija. Here, you’ll encounter echoes of old Austria and the glamour of emperors, woven together with the natural beauty and climate of the Mediterranean. It’s a blend of culture and nature that will leave you breathless.